Thursday, May 03, 2007

Preface - Ruminations of an aging Taiwanese neophyte

As I approach the end of my first year here in Taiwan, I want to spend some time writing down where I stand and why I put myself in that place. I believe my perspective is important for both you ancient Taiwan ex-pats and those of you who are simply curious (or doing a social studies project). For the latter, the reason is obvious, I know a lot more about Taiwan than you do (beginning with the fact that it’s not Thailand). I know what it’s like to walk the streets here. I now live with a Taiwanese family (not to mention I’ve been dating a Taiwanese girl for about two and half years now).

I know a lot of the minutia one only gets from really immersing himself in the culture. Some may disagree that those of us with so little background should be writing about Taiwan -- maybe they don't -- but if so, I'll have to disagree.

Nevertheless, I’m still more or less on the outside. My Chinese is still very basic (你在哪裡下車? or 你喜不喜歡畫畫兒 ?*), so most of my conversations are translated from Chinese into French (since that’s what Fanfan and I speak together). I am rarely spoken to, but spoken of, even when I’m sitting right there. This isn’t a commentary on the politesse of the Taiwanese. It’s just a fact that when someone wants to know how old I am, what I do here, what I think about stinky tofu, etc., they ask someone else.

But, I’m getting better. It seems like literally every couple of days I come home from class, and I understand more and more of what people are saying (it’s the speaking that comes too slowly). Every day has it’s little victories: taking my first taxi alone, ordering food for the first time, asking directions — and understanding the response — etc.

So, how could someone with, comparatively, so little intimate knowledge of what’s happening around him be of any aid to an ex-pat of five, ten, twenty years who speaks perfect Chinese? For one, I’m younger. Things have changed, I presume, since many of you got here, but some things may have done so so gradually that there were certain things you missed. The people I spend my time with are likely from a different generation than you. This is not to say that I’m going to show you how you’re wrong about something, rather I want to add texture or perspective to your views.

Also, it’s important to remember what it’s like trying to grasp all of this. Not just a different culture and a different language, but all the mess that comes along with it: politics, history, nuance.

I hope y’all’ll** take the time to read this and tell me what you think. I don't know when the first one will appear, but I'm generally trying to revamp this site. I will be spending more time writing, which means less posts on a daily basis (at least as long as I'm working and studying at the same time). For the last month or so, I've just been linking to interesting stories, without much input of my own. I'm going to try to limit those kinds of posts to a minimum and opt for bulkier, more meaningful posts posts.

That is, of course, if my studies and work permit.

*Of course I know the isn’t used in Taiwan very much (I almost said "not at all" but I heard a lady on the television last night say "一塊兒" instead of "一起"). Anyone who has used the book we use at TaiDa (which a lot of schools use, from what I understand) knows what I’m talking about.

** Yes, that's proper English where I come from.

9 comments:

  1. I don't think the number of years you have been here is necessarily that important to writing something intelligent and interesting about Taiwan. The most important thing is actively observing and engaging with what's going on around you as opposed to living in a bubble.

    And I don't think I qualify as being ancient!! I'm not that old nor have I been in Taiwan that long.

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  2. Hey David,

    Thanks for the support, and I certainly don't intend to put myself in a bubble.

    About being ancient, I got the impression from something I read on your site a while back that you'd been here for quite some time.

    Sorry for the mix up.

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  3. We've all thought about these questions, I reckon. When you get down to it, the only cool thing about a weblog is how useful it will be for 'posterity'--i.e., how interesting (or not) it will be to read in 10 yrs or so. What I mean is, you're learning all sorts of things now, and won't it be amusing to recall some or hopefully most of this several years down the road? Probably.

    I've been in Taiwan for 7 yrs, give or take a semester or two, but by far the most interesting time was the first two years, in the late 90s. I didn't blog/write about that time then, but take it from me--you should...Try to get the prosaic details (e.g., the slightly different-sounding cicadas in the bushes) in there, those are often the most interesting. These are only MHOs/suggestions.

    Regards,

    N0574.

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  4. Everybody has a different idea of "ancient". I'm sure that when I first got here, I would have considered anyone who had been here for four years ancient. Now that I've been here that long, I've realized that I'm not ancient at all. Poagao and Maoman are ancient.

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  5. The question of how long I have been here is a little difficult to answer in one sentence. I'll tell you next time I get the chance. Still, compared to the likes of Michael Turton, Jerome Keating and Poagao I am still something of a neophyte myself.

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  6. Sorry it took me so long to get back to y'all. I've been working a really hectic schedule lately, subbing for two teachers, which means leaving at 8 in the morning and getting home at about 10 or 11 at night.

    About the "ancient" comment, I meant it sarcastically for those of you who certainly aren't ancient and literally for those guys (Turton, Keatings, and co.) who have. I'm getting to that point where four years doesn't seem that long (even though I've been here for less than a year), because I know people who have been here that long and know relatively very little about this place.

    Maybe I'm trying to say that I've realized that time isn't really the biggest decider in whether you know this place, because you have to actively probe it and always want to learn more.

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  7. Heck, I'm so ancient, certain parts of me are cultural relics. Soon I'm going to need a historical site renovation permit just to take my morning shower.

    Good post. All you need is an open heart to comment, man. Your stuff is always good, so no worries.

    Also, nostalgiaphile is right. Even when you don't have a clear idea of why things happen the way they do, blog anyway, because you'll love reading your perceptions of life here later on. And let's face it -- human memory is more of a longterm rationalization project than a database -- so blogging will help you recall exactly what happened.

    Michael

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  8. Speaking of four years, I've been here about that long and I have to say that time in Taiwan flows faster than anywhere else I've lived/been. It doesn't feel anywhere close to 4 years that I've been here. It won't be long until you're thinking the same thing.

    Oh, and I'm living proof that you're not the only redhead in Taiwan :-)

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  9. I look forward to your posts...and good luck avoiding spam.

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